These bars may look unconventional but the bottom line is that they flat out provide better handling and more comfort over a traditional bar. Better hand and body positions ensure more power, comfort and control. They come in both titanium and aluminum versions – 710mm wide aluminum version now available.
The “Loop” H-Bar has the same hand, stem and brake lever position as the original H-Bar but the cross bar sweeps forward to allow the levers to go behind the cross bar instead of in front. This gives longer uninterrupted hand positions and will allow trigger and grip/twist shifters to fit on the rearward extensions (unlike the original H-bar and the Cut H-bar). The continuous front loop of the bar enhances stiffness and is good for additional aero hand positions and mounting lights, GPS devices etc. Comfort and power and an impressive weight. With the levers in the optimum position the rider is superbly placed for fast riding while still enjoying all the hand positions available. The rearward extensions allow extra leverage and a wider hand position - be it for comfort or power. All H-bars are for a 31.8 stem – the cross tube is now tapered and butted with a 31.8 mm clamp area. The grip tubes on the aluminum version are also butted for strength, and weight savings.
710 Loop H-Bar® $120 Aluminum (black anodized)
This new H-Bar is 2"/50mm wider – the grip section is about 1.5" longer than the original.
660 Bend H-Bar® $85 Aluminum (black or silver anodized)
This new H-Bar is a return to the essence of the original H-bar
Cut H-Bar® $380 Titanium (bright hand-brushed), $120 Aluminum (black and silver anodized)
The “Cut” H-Bar is a cut-down version of the Loop bar. It is narrower and more compact than the Loop H-Bar. The brake levers fit on to the front extensions of the bar and the only available gear shifters that really work are above-the-bar thumbshifters – Shimano and SRAM under-bar trigger-shifters won't work. This bar is good for singlespeeding, urban fixies and touring. All H-bars are for a 31.8mm stem – the cross tube is now tapered and butted with a 31.8 mm clamp area. The grip tubes are also butted for strength and weight savings. You will most likely need to use a stem that is approximately 30mm shorter than what you would use with the original H-Bar or Loop bar to keep the reach of the main hand positions the same between both bars.
Further down the page are a couple of Loop / Cut comparison photographs...
Better handling and power output
The shape of the bar really allows you to throw the bike around in technical situations. With your hands in the wide and rearward grip position you can keep your weight back and your arm stance wide for stable and controlled technical or steep downhill riding. This position is just like having a wide bar with a short stem, similar to a downhill or dirt jumping bike, but with more sweep. This additional sweep brings your arms in closer to your side to allow more comfortable and natural use of your arm and back muscles. The sweep also allows you to push and swing the bike side to side with more control and power. It's especially beneficial when climbing.
These bars allow you to really get up on top of the pedals and grind out low cadence standing power for climbing in hard gears which is why the bar is so popular with single speeders. Your hands pull more towards your shoulders, a more natural 'pull' with stronger muscles. This allows you to push down with more force at the pedal. In extremely tight turns with the bar close to 90 degrees your outside arm and wrist is not taken to the edge of their flexible range as with traditional bars. This provides more control and stability on switch backs.
More comfortable and ergonomic
The sweep matches your natural hand and wrist positions creating a stronger hand and body position. With an H-Bar, your weight is evenly distributed across the width of your hand instead of being focused at the out side edge of your hand, the main cause of finger numbness. This 'even grip pressure' on the bar allows a better, more secure grip on the bar. This is especially nice if you chose to ride a fully rigid bike. The many and varied hand positions greatly reduce hand numbness and wrist pain. The H-Bar also reduces back pain since it has a range of hand positions from rear to front. This range allows you to move around and stretch your back. This is a bar you can ride all day.
Get further back or further forward.
With up to five inches of 'rear to front' hand position range you can really shift your weight back for steep downs or move to the front to keep the front wheel down for steep seated climbs.
Titanium H-bar® construction
TIG welded, 3AL-2.5V Seamless Titanium. The cross tube is tapered and butted with a 31.8 mm clamp area. It tapers to a 7/8" oval where it meets and is welded to the 7/8" grip tubes. The tubes have different wall thickness to optimize strength and weight.
Aluminum H-bar® construction
TIG Welded 6066 Aluminum. The cross tube is tapered and butted with a 31.8 mm clamp area. It tapers to a 7/8" oval where it meets and is welded to the 7/8" grip tubes. Both tubes are butted, to optimize strength and weight. The Bend H-bar isn't welded – it's just shaped!
I stock cork grips (130mm long and 35.5mm thick in the middle) – these are very light at 26 grams a pair and firm yet shock absorbing. They are covered on the ends to keep water out and best when used in combination with bar tape. And I also recommend ESI Silicon grips as a good option. Both are available in the store. I have custom length ESI grips for both the 660 and 710mm H-bars.
Thomson X4 stem (special price when purchased with an H-Bar)
If you need a new stem or a different size (length) with your new H-bar, the Thomson X4 is a very good choice.
How to buy:
Please contact us to check what H-bars are currently in stock, or visit the store to buy one. There are also Jones dealers in the USA (and more coming) – the Dealers page lists them so do please check there to see if there's one for you.